From Kedarnath to Rudraprayag: Mandakini’s wounded journey in the Himalayas

By Vidya Bhushan Rawat*

The Mandakini, one of the major tributaries of the Alaknanda and part of the sacred Ganga river system, rises from the Chorbari glaciers of Kedarnath at an altitude of 6,000 meters. It flows past Kedarnath and Gaurikund, its icy current shimmering as it winds through pine and chir forests. I have often stood along its banks in awe, watching the river’s serpentine brightness in the morning sun, and felt a deep spiritual connection.

At Sonprayag, I witnessed the beautiful confluence of the Vasuki (Songanga) with the Mandakini. The sight is unforgettable. Further along, the river passes near Madhyamaheshwar, one of the Panch Kedars, and at Kund, about 7 kilometers from Guptkashi, I saw how its waters are controlled by a reservoir. Until this point, the river is forceful and radiant. But what pains me deeply is what happens downstream.

After Kund, river mining is rampant. Contractors, often with the blessings of authorities, extract sand and stone, scarring the riverbed and banks. I have walked along stretches where the Mandakini appeared wounded, reduced to a trickle, robbed of her natural vigor. Only when the waters are released from the reservoir does she regain her shine. This cycle of exploitation and temporary revival feels like an insult to the sacred flow of a river that has nourished both people and faith for centuries.

The Mandakini passes through Chandrapuri, Agatsyamuni, and Tilwara before reaching Rudraprayag, where she merges with the Alaknanda below the ancient Shiva temple. I have sat many times at this confluence, simply watching the waters change colors with the light—morning, afternoon, evening. In those quiet moments, I felt the Mandakini was not just a river but a living force, embodying both nature and divinity.

Mandakini travels nearly 80 kilometers from its source to Rudraprayag, but her importance cannot be measured in distance. For me, she represents our identity, our heritage, and our spiritual strength. These rivers are not “resources” to be exploited for industrial greed. They are lifelines that demand our respect and protection. As someone who belongs to these regions, I say with conviction that if we fail to protect the Himalayas and their rivers, we will lose not only ecological balance but also a priceless part of who we are.

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*Human rights defender

Neville Cardus: The man who turned cricket writing into poetry

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